Determining And Fixing Plumbing Noises In Your Home

To diagnose noisy plumbing, it is important to determine first whether the unwanted sounds occur on the system's inlet side-in other words, when water is turned on-or on the drain side. Noises on the inlet side have varied causes: excessive water pressure, worn valve and faucet parts, improperly connected pumps or other appliances, incorrectly placed pipe fasteners, and plumbing runs containing too many tight bends or other restrictions. Noises on the drain side usually stem from poor location or, as with some inlet side noise, a layout containing tight bends.

Hissing

Hissing noise that occurs when a faucet is opened slightly generally signals excessive water pressure. Consult your local water company if you suspect this problem; it will be able to tell you the water pressure in your area and can install a pressurereducing valve on the incoming water supply pipe if necessary.

Thudding

Thudding noise, often accompanied by shuddering pipes, when a faucet or appliance valve is turned off is a condition called water hammer. The noise and vibration are caused by the reverberating wave of pressure in the water, which suddenly has no place to go. Sometimes opening a valve that discharges water quickly into a section of piping containing a restriction, elbow, or tee fitting can produce the same condition.

Water hammer can usually be cured by installing fittings called air chambers or shock absorbers in the plumbing to which the problem valves or faucets are connected. These devices allow the shock wave created by the halted flow of water to dissipate in the air they contain, which (unlike water) is compressible.

Older plumbing systems may have short vertical sections of capped pipe behind walls on faucet runs for the same purpose; these can eventually fill with water, reducing or destroying their effectiveness. The cure is to drain the water system completely by shutting off the main water supply valve and opening all faucets. Then open the main supply valve and close the faucets one at a time, starting with the faucet nearest the valve and ending with the one farthest away.

Chattering or Screeching

Intense chattering or screeching that occurs when a valve or faucet is turned on, and that usually disappears when the fitting is opened fully, signals loose or defective internal parts. The solution is to replace the valve or faucet with a new one.

Pumps and appliances such as washing machines and dishwashers can transfer motor noise to pipes if they are improperly connected. Link such items to plumbing with plastic or rubber hoses-never rigid pipe-to isolate them.

Other Inlet Side Noises

Creaking, squeaking, scratching, snapping, and tapping usually are caused by the expansion or contraction of pipes, generally copper ones supplying hot water. The sounds occur as the pipes slide against loose fasteners or strike nearby house framing. You can often pinpoint the location of the problem if the pipes are exposed; just follow the sound when the pipes are making noise. Most likely you will discover a loose pipe hanger or an area where pipes lie so close to floor joists or other framing pieces that they clatter against them. Attaching foam pipe insulation around the pipes at the point of contact should remedy the problem. Be sure straps and hangers are secure and provide adequate support. Where possible, pipe fasteners should be attached to massive structural elements such as foundation walls instead of to framing; doing so lessens the transmission of vibrations from plumbing to surfaces that can amplify and transfer them. If attaching fasteners to framing is unavoidable, wrap pipes with insulation or other resilient material where they contact fasteners, and sandwich the ends of new fasteners between rubber washers when installing them.

Correcting plumbing runs that suffer from flow-restricting tight or numerous bends is a last resort that should be undertaken only after consulting a skilled plumbing contractor. Unfortunately, this situation is fairly common in older houses that may not have been built with indoor plumbing or that have seen several remodels, especially by amateurs.

Drainpipe Noise

On the drain side of plumbing, the chief goals are to eliminate surfaces that can be struck by falling or rushing water and to insulate pipes to contain unavoidable sounds.

In new construction, bathtubs, shower stalls, toilets, and wallmounted sinks and basins should be set on or against resilient underlayments to reduce the transmission of sound through them. Water-saving toilets and faucets are less noisy than conventional models; install them instead of older types even if codes in your area still permit using older fixtures.

Drainpipes that do not run vertically to the basement or that branch into horizontal pipe runs supported at floor joists or other framing present particularly troublesome noise problems. Such pipes are large enough to radiate considerable vibration; they also carry significant amounts of water, which makes the situation worse. In new construction, specify cast-iron soil pipes (the large pipes that drain toilets) if you can afford them. Their massiveness contains much of the noise made by water passing through them. Also, avoid routing drainpipes in walls shared with bedrooms and rooms where people gather. Walls containing drainpipes should be soundproofed as was described earlier, using double panels of sound-insulating fiberboard and wallboard. Pipes themselves can be wrapped with special fiberglass insulation made for the purpose; such pipes have an impervious vinyl skin (sometimes containing lead). Results are not always satisfactory.

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Plumbing Basics – Installing a Bathtub

Installing a bathtub isn't exactly rocket science, but it does require solid plumbing, carpentry, and sometimes, tiling skills. Replacing an old bathtub with a new one is also a moderately difficult project. If the old tub is readily accessible, the project can move speedily; if you have to open a wall to remove the old tub and position the new bathtub, the task is much harder. In either case, the project is within a home handyman's skills, although you will need a helper to move out the old tub and set in the new one. Make sure you have qualified yourself for the job and are comfortable attempting it. Rather than hiring a contractor to take over a halfway-completed project, it is better to consider employing one before you begin. Chances are you may need a professional plumber to make tube connections.

This article will help you install a new bathtub in your bathroom if you have already bought a new tub and don’t need to change the arrangement of your previous water supply pipes.


Your tools and material checklist should comprise the following:


New Bathtub
Hammer
Pipe Wrenches
Prybar
Safety Glasses
Level
Pliers
Adjustable Wrench
Putty Knife
Screwdriver
Cold Chisel
Tape Measure
Pipe Caps

Preparing for the Installation


Firstly, the supporting frame supplied with the bath should be fitted (if required) according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

 
Next, fit the taps or mixer to the bathtub. When fitting the tap block, it is important to make sure that if the tap comes with a plastic washer, it is fitted between the bath and the taps. On a plastic bath, it is also sensible to fit a supporting plate under the taps unit to prevent strain on the bathtub.

 
Fit the flexible tap connectors to the bottom of the two taps using 2 nuts and olives (sometimes supplied with the tub).

 
Fit the plug-hole outlet by smearing mastic filler round the sink outlet hole, and then pass the outlet through the hole in the bath. Use the nut supplied by the manufacturer to fit the plug-hole. Examine the plug-hole outlet for an inlet on the side for the overflow pipe.


Next, fit the end of the flexible overflow pipe to the overflow outlet. After that, screw the pipe to the overflow face which should be fitted inside the bath. Make sure you use all of the supplied washers.

 
Connect the trap to the bottom of the waste outlet on the bathtub by winding the thread of the waste outlet with silicone mastic or PTFE tape, and screw on the trap to the outlet. Connect the bottom of the overflow tube in a similar manner.


The bath should now be ready to be fitted in its final position.


Removing Old Taps
If you need to replace old taps with new ones as a part of your installation, then the first thing you should do is disconnect the water supply. After doing so, turn on the taps to drain any water remaining in the system. The process of removing the existing taps can be quite problematic due to the restricted access that is often the case.

Use a basin wrench (crowsfoot spanner) or a tap tool to undo the nut that connects the supply pipes to the taps. Have a cloth ready for the remaining water that will come from the pipes. Once the supply pipes have been removed, use the same tool to loosen the nut that holds the taps onto the bath/basin. You will need to stop the single taps from turning during this process. Once the taps have been removed, the holes in the bath/basin will have to be cleaned of any old sealing compound.

Before moving on to fit the new taps, compare the pipe connections on the old taps to the new taps. If the old taps are longer than the new taps, then a shank adapter is required for the new taps to fit.

Installing the Bathtub

Using the two wooden boards under its feet, place the bathtub in the required position. The wooden boards are helpful in evenly spreading the weight of the bathtub over the area of the boards instead of focusing all the weight onto four small points.


The next goal is to ensure that the bathtub is leveled all round. This can be achieved by checking the spirit level and adjusting the feet on the bathtub until the spirit level reads level.


To install taps, fit the bottom of the furthest flexible tap connector to the appropriate supply pipe by making a compression join; then do the same for the other tap.


Switch on the water supply and check all joints and new pipework for leaks and tighten them if necessary. Fill the bathtub and also check the overflow outlet and the normal outlet for leaks.


Finally, fix the bath paneling as described in the manufacturer’s instruction manual.


Tiling and sealing around the bathtub should wait until the bathtub has been used at least once as this will settle it into its final position.

Fitting New Taps
If the tails of the new taps are plastic, then you will need a plastic connector to prevent damage to the thread. One end of the connector fits on the plastic tail of the tap and the other end provides a connection to the existent supply pipes.

If you need to fit a monobloc, then you will require reducing couplers, which connects the 10mm pipe of the monobloc to the standard 15mm supply pipe.

Next, position the tap in the mounting hole in the bath/basin ensuring that the washers are in place between the tap and the sink. Secure the tap in place with the manufacturer provided backnut. Once the tap is securely in place, the supply pipes can be connected to the tails of the taps. The taps can either be connected by using corrugated copper piping or with normal tap connectors. The former type should be connected to the tap ends first, tightening only by hand. The supply pipes can later be connected to the other end. Tighten both ends with a spanner after both ends have been connected.

Tiling Around the Bathtub
In the area where the bath meets the tile, it is necessary to seal the joins with a silicone rubber caulking. This is important as the fitting can move enough to crack a rigid seal, causing the water to penetrate the wall between the bath and the tiling, leading to complications with dampness and possible leaks to the ceiling below.


You can choose from a variety of coloured sealants to blend in your fixtures and fittings. They are sold in tubes and cartridges, and are capable of sealing gaps up to a width of 3mm (1/8 inch). If you have a larger gap to fill, you can fill it with twists of soaked newspaper or soft rope. Remember to always fill the bathtub with water before sealing, to allow for the movement experienced when the tub is in use. The sealant can crack fairly early if you do not take into account this movement before sealing.


Alternatively, ceramic coving or quadrant tiles can be used to edge the bath or shower tray. Plastic strips of coving, which are easy to use and cut to size, are also easily available on the market. It is advisable to fit the tiles using water-resistant or waterproof adhesive and grout.

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Installing a New Shower Unit

A successful shower installation requires careful planning and a lot of work. In most cases, you will need to do three types of tasks: framing walls, installing the plumbing, and finishing walls.

Preparation

Firstly, you must decide on the type of shower that you wish to install. It is important to ascertain whether the chosen shower is capable of coping with certain systems and can regulate a safe level of water through the boiler. Most shower units nowadays are designed to be flexible to different water pressures (such as stored hot water and cold mains).

It is also important to take into account the water pressure and the planning of the piping and drainage for the shower

Different Types of Shower Units

Push-on Mixer: The hose and spray parts of the push-on mixer shower unit can be connected to the bath tap as per your requirement, and the water temperature can be adjusted via the taps. Push-on mixers are cheap and extremely simple to install. However, although the hose connection is simple, it is easily dislodged. Additionally, it is inconvenient to adjust the temperature.

Bath/Shower Mixer: The hose and spray of this type of shower are combined with a bath mixer tap, and the temperature can be adjusted through the bath taps. It is a very cheap option and no extra plumbing is involved. However, the bath/shower mixers also suffer from inconvenient temperature control options.

Manual Mixer: The hose and spray of a manual mixer shower unit are a part of the wall unit and the hot and cold water supplies are connected to a single valve The temperature and pressure of the water are controlled through either one or a variety of knobs (in more expensive showers). Although temperature control is much easier in manual mixer types, they are more expensive than the previously mentioned mixers. They also require additional plumbing of hot and cold water supply pipes.

Thermostatic Mixer: The hose and spray of this shower type are a part of the wall unit and the hot and cold water supplies are connected to a single valve here too. It is complete with a built-in stabiliser to self-adjust the water temperature and to prevent it from becoming too hot. One of the biggest advantages of a thermostatic mixer shower type includes convenient temperature control. However, it is the most expensive of the different mixer options.

Power Shower: A power shower is a single unit containing a powerful electric pump that is capable of altering both the water pressure and temperature. This type of shower can be fitted if there is water supply from a cold water cistern and a hot water cylinder. A power shower makes the adjustment of both pressure and temperature easy. On the other hand, it is unsuitable for water heated directly by the shower or where the water is supplied by a combination boiler under mains pressure.

Electric Shower: An electric shower is plumbed into a mains cold water supply and it heats the water electrically. It is important to note that for this shower type to be installed, the mains pressure needs to be at least 0.7kg/sq cm (10lb/sq in). The unit allows the temperature and pressure to be adjusted via a knob. Models with temperature stabilisers are better as they remain unaffected by other taps elsewhere in use within the household. A major drawback of electric showers is that the control knob only allows for the option of high temperatures at less pressure, or lower temperatures at a greater pressure. This is problematic in the winter season when the spray is often weak and the mains water is colder. However, this problem is tackled in some models which are available with a winter/summer setting.

Method
Depending on the type of shower you wish to install, the shower head must either be fitted in order to avoid its contact with the water in the bath below or the base tray, or it must have a check valve.

Before starting, it is advisable to mark the positions of the shower head and control, and to plan the pipe-work involved. Additionally, the drainage system to remove the waste water will need to be planned. Both positions of the cable route and the shower switch will also need to be considered if an instantaneous or electric shower unit is being installed.


Use the instruction guide provided with the shower unit to fit the shower control.

 
Before fitting the pipes that will supply the water to the shower system, it is important to cut off the water supply. In order to protect the pipes, they should be given a waterproof covering and also fitted with isolating valves. The pipes can then be buried into the wall and plastered over to neaten the overall look.

 
Fit the base tray, shower head, and fittings.

 
Connect the main shower control to the pipes that will be supplying the water (This may require a female screw thread adapter).
 

Reconnect the water supply and test the pipes for any leaks, as some may need tightening.
 

If you are installing an electrical shower, remember to switch off the electricity supply before making any electrical connections. Once these connections have been made (there should be guidance within the instruction manual), the power supply can be switched back on.
 
Adjusting Water Pressure to Suit Your Shower

The cold water reservoir can be lifted to a greater height (sometimes as little as 150mm (6inches)) by fitting a strong wooden support beneath it - possibly composed of struts and blockboards. If you choose this option, the main and distribution pipes will also have to be raised to meet the new height of the reservoir.


Alternatively, a booster pump (a single pump or a dual/twin pump) can be fitted. Whichever type is chosen, it must be connected into the power supply in order to operate.

Piping and Drainage

It is best to use 15mm diameter supply pipes, and make the runs to the shower as short and straight as possible so as to maintain maximum pressure and minimise heat loss. Additionally, by minimising the use of elbows for pipe corners, you can decrease the resistance in the flow of the water supply. You can achieve this by bending the pipes instead.



Most Common Mistakes

# Violating or ignoring local code restrictions.

# Using pipes that are too small.

# Attaching copper to galvanized without using a brass or dielectric fitting between the two.

# Not using tape or pipe compound at threaded joints.

# Not leveling your fixtures when installing them.

# Not installing an air gap filling for fixtures.

# Cutting supply stub outs too short to install the shutoff valves onto after the finished wall is in place.

# Not properly aligning tubing into fittings or stop valves. (Forcing the nut onto the compression ring at an angle when the tubing is at an angle will cause a leak.)

# When turning the water back on in your home, always run the outside hose valve or flush your toilets to bleed dirt and air from the lines. This debris can cause problems in your sink faucets and other plumbing trim.

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